CubaPLUS Magazine

Guyana A Multifaceted Jewel Through the Eyes of a Naturalist Guide

PHOTOS: NATHAN CHINAPEN, Ashley Holland
Guyana A Multifaceted Jewel Through the Eyes of a Naturalist Guide

In the heart of South America, washed by the Atlantic and crossed by countless rivers, lies Guyana–a nation proudly known as the “land of many waters” and a “hidden gem.” With two decades of experience guiding travelers through the country’s most fascinating landscapes, naturalist guide Luke Johnson shares with CubaPLUS Guyana the secrets that make this nation such a uniquely captivating destination.

The first question seeks to capture that initial impression every traveler takes away. With the calm of someone who has welcomed hundreds of visitors, Johnson reflects:

“Over my years as a guide, I’ve seen newcomers surprised and enchanted by so many different things.

From the familiar sound of English upon arrival and the colonial architecture, to the spontaneous warmth of the people and the country’s remarkable ethnic diversity.

From the immensity of untouched rainforest–looking like a carpet of green broccoli from the air–to the rich cuisine infused with Indigenous, African, Indian, Chinese, and Portuguese influences… everything comes together to make Guyana an exceptional destination.”

Beyond the Familiar: The Allure of Rewa

When asked about places that escape the usual circuits, such as the famous Iwokrama Forest or Surama Village, Johnson is precise.

He clarifies that each of Guyana’s natural resorts and lodges has its own unique identity, making comparisons unfair, since all of them offer species and experiences that set them apart.

After this reflection, he admits a personal favorite: Rewa Village and its Rewa Eco Lodge. The reasons, he explains, are many. It’s not just a birdwatching destination, but “a place to immerse yourself in nature: from mountains to grasslands, rivers, and local life.”

He highlights the possibility of navigating river stretches with no human presence, as well as the wide range of activities available–birdwatching, hiking, sport fishing for Arapaima (the world’s largest freshwater scaled fish). Still, he makes clear that Rewa is “only one of many places that are exceptional in their own right.”

The Birder’s Dilemma: How to Choose Just Three?

For a bird lover, the inevitable question is: What are the must-sees? “It’s a tough one,” he admits with a smile. “Much of Guyana remains scientifically unexplored.

From lowland forests and coastal wetlands to savannas that transform into vast swamps in the rainy season, and from mountain forests to tepuis, the variety of habitats is immense, and the diversity of species astonishingly rich. A list of just ‘3 must-sees’ could never capture it all.”

To illustrate, he points out a range of examples:

Guiana Shield endemics (like the Blood-colored Woodpecker), near- threatened species (like the Rufous Crab Hawk), endangered ones (like the Sun Parakeet), vulnerable birds (such as the Harpy Eagle or the Festive Parrot), and critically endangered species (like the Hoary-throated Spinetail, Red Siskin or the Rio Branco Antbird). “Just with these categories alone,” he concludes, “we’ve already gone beyond three.”

Even so, he agrees to play along, under his own terms: conservation and accessibility. His personal “Big 3” carry weight:

1. The Sun Parakeet (endangered), found in the riverine forests of the southern Pakaraimas.

2. The Hoary-throated Spinetail (critically Endangered).

3. The Rio Branco Antbird (critically endangered).

“Both number 2 and 3,” he specifies, “share the same habitat along the Ireng River. They’re not the most colorful, but they are the ones most in need of being seen.”

The Unplanned Magic

When asked about that “magical moment” that defines a trip, Johnson smiles through his words: “There are countless ones.” Still, he chooses two. The first: the culmination of a personal quest–“finally spotting a Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo, a bird I had only ever heard and tried unsuccessfully to see for years, and this time it stayed with us for over fifteen minutes.”

The second: an encounter with the most iconic feline of the Americas. “Watching a Jaguar cross the road and seemingly disappear into the trees, only to return moments later–in a gesture of pure wild generosity–and sit at the forest’s edge, as if posing to say: ‘Here I am. Take as many photos as you like.’”

Why a Guide? The Difference Between Seeing and Understanding

Is it possible to travel without a guide? Johnson doesn’t discourage it, but he explains why a local guide makes all the difference: knowledge of the best spots and timings; help navigating complex routes; cultural understanding; continuity–especially for birdwatching, where a guide records sightings so time isn’t lost–and, crucially, acting as both a linguistic and cultural bridge, especially with Guyanese Creole, whose rich dialects can be hard for outsiders to understand.

A good guide, he emphasizes, manages every detail so that the adventure unfolds seamlessly.

Final Recommendations

His parting advice is practical: book early, ideally a year in advance, as lodges are small. Arrange the trip as a complete package. Travel during the dry season (February to April, July to November). The latter part of the year is especially good for wildlife viewing. And a welcome reassurance for many: “There’s no need for malaria medication.”

To close, we ask for a philosophy that sums up the soul of Guyana. His reply is simple, clear, and perfect–the same one he gives to every guest before heading into the jungle: “Come with an open mind, be prepared, and experience an enriching adventure!”

We couldn’t think of a better way to begin. The invitation is made: dare to discover the magic of Guyana–a destination that truly steals the heart.

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