Although in Cuba there are two geographical enclaves so far recognized by the name of Sugar Loaf (Pan de Azúcar), almost on the eastern border (San Antonio del Sur) and another in the western end, about 10 km from the Viñales Valley, today we will talk about the last one, located in the province of Pinar del Río, in the famous Sierra de los Órganos, Cordillera de Guaniguanico.
It is a raised formation about 12 km from the rural town of Pons, from which you generally leave to see it, in the middle of the vegetation or thick jungle of the Cuban firm mountain. And its peculiar shape is clearly distinguished. There live humble and hard-working people dedicated to the cultivation of tobacco, in the middle of a very beautiful natural environment.
Some years ago, people dedicated to speleology discovered some very interesting galleries or caves at the base of the so-called Sugar Loaf in Pinar del Río. And today there are many people interested in knowing about the find, even though it is necessary to travel a long way through municipalities such as La Palma, Viñales, Minas de Matahambre and Pons to finally arrive at such a property.
Actually, there is no other choice but to do it and remember later that the experience of the trip brings many satisfactions to lovers of nature and science, difficulties and fatigue in between. If you spend the night in the hospitable house of some peasants residing in the prelude to the trip: Pons, at 5 in the morning you can take a rustic rural transport that will leave you in the sought after Sugarloaf Mountain at 7 am.
In the caves there is notable evidence of rock art created centuries ago by the aboriginal natives who inhabited that area, before being practically exterminated as a community by colonization, although they did not show a high degree of development. The spelunca called The Petroglyphs is very interesting.
Through the dark nights of those overwhelming parts, the flight of the siguapa impresses. A bird very similar to the owl, also with only nocturnal habits. With a medium to large size, the siguapas collect some pebbles from the land to throw at those who approach their nests, including humans, whom they first scare with a piercing and unpleasant squeal.
Once you leave the caves in the company of an expert local guide, it is our recommendation, the traveler can spend a longer time enjoying the wonderful green of that precious habitat. The Cimarrones River flows gracefully through those places, on a route that brings it from a point called Palmarito. Among the reptiles, native species such as the well-known chipojos, chameleons are very curious, and amphibians and birds with colorful plumage and beautiful chirping are also reported. There are those who do not give in to the efforts and are encouraged to continue the arduous walk to the ruins of the El Carmelo coffee plantation, whose owner was a certain Don Francisco (Pancho) Marty, a slave trader.
They are vestiges that date from the 19th century and show standing pieces of the walls of the main house, all stately in its time, although now hardly any memory and old bricks remain. There are very sad legends about those old domains of coffee plantations, masters and slaves, that the countrymen of that area lost in the wild like to tell today.
A place somewhat related to Macondo and its essences, perhaps full of spirits. A place to know the real wonder of our Antillean land, its nature and traditions.
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